When you inspect a package of M&Ms, among the best-selling sweets in the United States, you'll see recognizable ingredients like sugar, skimmed milk powder, and cocoa butter. However, numerous items are unfamiliar: acacia gum, dextrin, palm wax, soy lecithin, and E100.
There are 34 ingredients in M&Ms, and no fewer than 30 countries participating in providing them. Every one has its own production network that transforms base substances into ingredients – beans into chocolate paste, plants into sweetener, petroleum into blue food dye.
These ingredients then journey across the world to a central processing facility where they are combined and transformed into tiny multicolored candy-coated chocolates.
It is now more widely recognized that agricultural networks are a significant contributor of the climate crisis. Scientists can examine land clearing for farming or greenhouse gases from animals. Yet the ecological footprint of ultra-processed foods – like these candies – is more ambiguous and is just beginning to come into focus. A key factor they have been challenging to evaluate is the inherent complexity of ultra-processed foods: these industrially made foods include a huge number of ingredients and processes to assemble them, making it nearly impossible to track.
However, this doesn't imply it's unimportant. Since ultra-processed foods dominate US grocery store shelves and diets – they now account for seventy percent of food sold in supermarkets, and more than half of calories consumed – specialists say that assessing their ecological cost is critical to create a more climate-friendly food system.
Although scientists are only starting to examine the ecological effects of UPFs, existing knowledge about them is worrisome.
"The more processed foods are, the more harmful they are to public wellness and the environment," stated Anthony Fardet. The main reason, he explains, is that the components are so energy intensive. When combined, the toll balloons.
Take the popular candy. The initial phase in producing the candies is farming for cocoa, sugar, dairy and palm.
It has been extensive evidence that agriculture for ingredients like chocolate drives ever increasing rates of forest clearance worldwide. For over a century, farmland growth has driven nearly ninety percent of worldwide forest loss, which has been responsible for 30% of global greenhouse gas emissions. Major companies have been called out in the past for agricultural methods in their production network, and have since created sustainability plans, but these fail to address that industrial farming are, fundamentally, ecologically damaging.
Additionally, sweetener, milk solids and palm oil – also significant carbon dioxide sources.
Furthermore are the factory-produced components like food dyes – possibly the hallmark of ultra-processing – which these candies contain thirteen varieties of. The blue candies are colored with E132 and E133; these dyes are primarily produced in industrial color production centers Asia, via a chemical reaction of aromatic hydrocarbons with chemical compounds, accelerated by the elements copper and chromium.
Creating soy lecithin, an additive made from soybean oil that's used to change the consistency of candy, requires steps like degumming in a hot reactor, extracting fat molecules, bleaching using hydrogen peroxide and drying under vacuum pressure. And, dextrose, starts off as corn that gets steeped in acid before being ground, separated and dried. From there, it's decomposed into simpler compounds using biological catalysts and acids, and then reformed into crystals.
Although ultra-processed chocolate products are some of the worst offenders, different types of UPFs are burdensome on the planet as well. Consider a well-known chip, which has 39 ingredients. Corn is the primary component, and for every hectare grown, 1,000kg of carbon dioxide is emitted to the atmosphere. Similar to other corporations, manufacturers have developed their own environmental pledges, but many of these commitments are underpinned by methods that are considered superficial eco-claims.
Consequently, researchers have started to calculate the ecological cost of ultra-processed foods.
One analysis estimated that well-known sweets generate at least 13.2kg of greenhouse gases per kilo produced. With annual production of over 664 million kg in the US, this would mean that the products emit at least three point eight million tonnes of CO2 – making up 0.1% of annual emissions in the US. However, this is just a calculation based on accessible information; the actual impact is probably much higher, experts say.
There's a "black box" when it comes to emissions tracking in the processed food industry, says a professor who studies how companies engage with the environmental challenge. "There exists so much uncertainty as production networks get complex."
Calculating precisely of the ecological impact of UPFs is extremely challenging, given that, by definition, UPFs consist of numerous components and a high volume of opaque processes. Ingredients aren't just mixed together like one would do to make a stew at home. Instead, these ingredients are altered synthetically, some parts removed, and tastes, colors or consistencies incorporated – and it's unknown what the cost of these methods are because so many suppliers and parts are involved.
Another reason is that every ultra-processed food are the creations of manufacturing corporations that have minimal motivation to reveal their environmental footprint and might not fully understand it to start with.
For instance, major brands do not farm primary components themselves, but instead depend on numerous growers that may not have accurate carbon accounting measures in place. This means that emissions from big food corporations may be underreported. Analysts noted that corporations "don't have actual data, so they use estimated values, which are approximations."
Researchers say that corporations provide reports on straightforward aspects like transportation, which are simpler to measure, and frequently exclude or convolute the agricultural emissions of their items. Ultimately, reporting high emissions contradicts the interests of large food corporations, so the complex calculations needed to establish the carbon footprint of industrial farming and multi-step industrial chemical processes used to make processed food components remain understudied.
"The main point of manufactured products is money," said Fardet, noting that they're designed to be attractive, easy and enjoyable to eat.
"Most of the people in the food industry's value chain are not concerned with climate change from an ethical perspective, but they are interested in money," said a specialist. He clarifies that to shift those incentives, the value of foods and ingredients would need to include their impact on our shared climate. But that would require official policies and economic consequences based on the actual ecological impact of UPFs.
For less than two dollars, the price of popular candies at the grocery store hardly reflects their real impact on the planet. But to tackle these issues with ultra-processed foods, more than just a minor adjustments to the component selection are required.
"Lowering the salt, or sugar of just a single item is just greenwashing," stated the expert. "We need to change the entire system." To do that, he suggested eating more regionally produced, unprocessed items, which frequently take much less energy and transit to create, and therefore have a much smaller environmental impact.
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