The fashion icon Edward Enninful reflects on Modern Britain: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Than in the 90s.

A chance encounter on the London Underground in 1988 transformed the path of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the London's buzzing 1990s cultural landscape, progressing from model to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the fashion director of the publication i-D.

"It was the peak of the Young British Artists – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I understood we’d be kindred spirits. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I long for that energy."

If Enninful sounds nostalgic, he is far from alone. Lately, a longing look back of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. But since that time, Enninful believes a noticeable regression. "I believe, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "It’s not even this country – it’s everywhere."

A Perceived Regression

This shift is increasingly evident: the growth of far-right politics, the pushback against social awareness, and the reinforcement of narrow beauty standards. In place of the optimism of the Blair era, today a more divisive political force stands as a possible leader. Furthermore, the Union Jack, once an emblem of national pride, has returned as a polarising symbol.

For Enninful, the solution has always been to celebrate culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the driving force behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, showcasing a wide range of prominent faces from politics.

"Individuals with a platform should wield it," he says, discussing those editorial decisions. "Everyone talks about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain was not a welcoming country, if it did not offer my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I always loved. I believe this period will pass."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He finds hope in the next generation: "They are far more conscious than we were. They talk about implicit prejudice – I had no concept what that was."

Those early experiences would forge a trailblazing career built on boldness and representation. Enninful made history as the first man, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing Black models, curvy models, an octogenarian, and people from all walks of life. Importantly, sales grew.

"Ignoring vast segments of the population, it’s not just that you’re excluding people – it’s a poor strategy," he states.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has established his new venture EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his key endeavour since moving on from his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "innovator".

"My nature is to challenge the established norms. I was born and raised in a place where everybody was black – the doctors, the attorneys, the president. Then we arrived in England, with nothing, and I became the 'other'. I was very shy. My teachers said I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the suspicion laws … all that gave me a unique perspective on the inside and the outside."

In contrast to the popular image of fashion editors as loud and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and projects peace. His journey has not been immune to challenges, including openly discussed struggles with mental health and addiction.

He has also endured significant health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, now leaving him with impaired eyesight. "I was in such a dark place for two years, not working, anxious I was going to go blind. It’s similar to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I thought, if this ever is over, I’m just going to do everything that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This determination to fit into a box has inspired him beyond the industry that established him. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a roster of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to capture the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and give platform to those who weren't given due recognition at the time.

"The establishment sometimes neglected to celebrate the most relevant talents because they weren't of the expected background," he states.

This project itself functions with a different strategy, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "The question is, what can we do together? Is it an experience, a series? The magazine is one component of a larger creative platform."

Looking Forward Without Fear

Today, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His story, he feels, is a demonstration to the power of following your instincts.

What would the younger Edward think of the his current self? He laughs heartily. "He would be astonished, but he’d be pleased. At that time I was anti-establishment. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He reflects. "I never take anything for granted. We were displaced, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have counted me out my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve decided to do something."